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Journal Article

Quantifying wave measurement differences in historical and present wave buoy systems

Robert Edward Jensen; Val Swail; Richard Harry Bouchard
Ocean Dynamics · Vol. 71, Issue 6-7 · pp. 731-755 · 2021

Abstract

An intra-measurement evaluation was undertaken, deploying a NOMAD buoy equipped with three National Data Buoy Center and two Environment and Climate Change Canada-AXYS sensor/payload packages off Monterey, California; a Datawell Directional Waverider buoy was deployed within 19 km of the NOMAD site. The six independent wave measurement systems reported hourly estimates of the frequency spectra, and when applicable, the four Fourier directional components. The integral wave parameters showed general agreement among the five sensors compared to the neighboring Datawell Directional Waverider, with the Inclinometer and the Watchman performing similarly to the more sophisticated 3DMG, HIPPY, and Triaxys sensor packages. As the H m0 increased, all but the Inclinometer were biased low; however, even the Watchman reported reasonable wave measurements up to about 6–7 m, after which the H m0 becomes negatively biased up to about a meter, comparable to previous studies. The parabolic fit peak spectral wave period, T pp , results showed a large scatter, resulting from the complex nature of multiple swell wave systems compounded by local wind-sea development, exacerbated by a variable that can be considered as temporally unstable. The three directional sensors demonstrated that NOMAD buoys are capable of measuring directional wave properties along the western US coast, with biases of about 6 to 9 deg, and rms errors of approximately 30 deg. Frequency spectral evaluations found similarities in the shape, but a significant under estimation in the high frequency range. The results from slope analyses also revealed a positive bias in the rear face of the spectra, and a lack of invariance in frequency as suggested by theory.

Bibliographic Information

JournalOcean Dynamics
PublisherSpringer
Publication Date2021-07-01
Publication Year2021
Volume71
Issue6-7
Pages731-755
Document TypeJournal Article
Print ISSN1616-7341
eISSN1616-7228
DOI10.1007/s10236-021-01461-0

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NARA Access Coverage1948-01-01~Current
Journal Homepagehttps://www.springer.com/journal/10236
Publisher PageOpen Publisher Page
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