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Journal Article

Small-Scale Morpho-Sedimentary Dynamics in the Swash Zone of a Megatidal Mixed Sand–Gravel Beach

Tristan B. Guest; Alex E. Hay
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering · Vol. 9, Issue 4 · pp. 413 · 2021

Abstract

On mixed sand–gravel beaches, impacts from gravel- and cobble-sized grains—mobilized by the energetic shorebreak—limit the utility of in situ instrumentation for measuring the small-scale response of the beach face on wave period time scales. We present field observations of swash zone morpho-sedimentary dynamics at a steep, megatidal mixed sand–gravel beach using aeroacoustic and optical remote sensing. Coincident observations of bed level and mean surficial sediment grain size in the swash zone were obtained using an array of optical cameras paired with acoustic range sensors. Lagrangian tracking of swash-transported cobbles was carried out using an additional downward-oriented camera. The principal objective of the study was to investigate linkages between sediment grain size dynamics and swash zone morphological change. In general, data from the range sensor and camera array show that increases in bed level corresponded to increases in mean grain size. Finer-scale structures in the bed level and mean grain size signals were observable over timescales of minutes, including signatures of bands of coarse-grained material that migrated shoreward with the leading edge of the swash prior to high tide berm formation. The direction and magnitude of cobble transport in the swash varied with cross-shore position, and with the composition of the underlying bed. These results demonstrate that close-range remote sensing techniques can provide valuable insights into the roles of cobble-sized versus sand-sized particle dynamics in the swash zone on mixed sand–gravel beaches.

Bibliographic Information

JournalJournal of Marine Science and Engineering
PublisherMDPI
Publication Date2021-04-13
Publication Year2021
Volume9
Issue4
Pages413
Document TypeJournal Article
eISSN2077-1312
DOI10.3390/jmse9040413
SubjectMarine science; oceanography; marine engineering; coastal science; marine environment

Access Information

NARA Access CoverageOA / free full text
Journal Homepagehttps://www.mdpi.com/journal/jmse
Publisher PageOpen Publisher Page
This article is openly available from the publisher.