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Modelling Cross-Shore Shoreline Change on Multiple Timescales and Their Interactions

Rob Schepper; Rafael Almar; Erwin Bergsma; Sierd de Vries; Ad Reniers; Mark Davidson; Kristen Splinter
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering · Vol. 9, Issue 6 · pp. 582 · 2021

Abstract

In this paper, a new approach to model wave-driven, cross-shore shoreline change incorporating multiple timescales is introduced. As a base, we use the equilibrium shoreline prediction model ShoreFor that accounts for a single timescale only. High-resolution shoreline data collected at three distinctly different study sites is used to train the new data-driven model. In addition to the direct forcing approach used in most models, here two additional terms are introduced: a time-upscaling and a time-downscaling term. The upscaling term accounts for the persistent effect of short-term events, such as storms, on the shoreline position. The downscaling term accounts for the effect of long-term shoreline modulations, caused by, for example, climate variability, on shorter event impacts. The multi-timescale model shows improvement compared to the original ShoreFor model (a normalized mean square error improvement during validation of 18 to 59%) at the three contrasted sandy beaches. Moreover, it gains insight in the various timescales (storms to inter-annual) and reveals their interactions that cause shoreline change. We find that extreme forcing events have a persistent shoreline impact and cause 57–73% of the shoreline variability at the three sites. Moreover, long-term shoreline trends affect short-term forcing event impacts and determine 20–27% of the shoreline variability.

Bibliographic Information

JournalJournal of Marine Science and Engineering
PublisherMDPI
Publication Date2021-05-27
Publication Year2021
Volume9
Issue6
Pages582
Document TypeJournal Article
eISSN2077-1312
DOI10.3390/jmse9060582
SubjectMarine science; oceanography; marine engineering; coastal science; marine environment

Access Information

NARA Access CoverageOA / free full text
Journal Homepagehttps://www.mdpi.com/journal/jmse
Publisher PageOpen Publisher Page
This article is openly available from the publisher.