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Measuring critical force in sport climbers: a validation study of the 4 min all-out test on finger flexorsNARA Subscribed
Purpose The critical force (CF) concept, differentiating steady and non-steady state conditions, extends the critical power paradigm for sport climbing. This study aimed to validate CF for finger flexors derived from the 4 min all-out test as a boundary for the highest sustainable work intensity in sport climbers. Methods Twelve participants underwent multiple laboratory visits. Initially, they performed the 4 min intermittent...
Acute Effect of High-Intensity Climbing on Performance and Muscle Oxygenation in Elite ClimbersNARA Subscribed
High-intensity training (HIT) is known to have deteriorating effects on performance which manifest in various physiological changes such as lowered force production and oxidative capacity. However, the effect of HIT in climbing on finger flexor performance has not been investigated yet. Twenty-one climbers partook in an intervention study with three assessment time points: pre-HIT, post-HIT, and 24-h post-HIT. The HIT involved...
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