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Infragravity Wave Energy Partitioning in the Surf Zone in Response to Wind-Sea and Swell ForcingOA Marine
An alongshore array of pressure sensors and a cross-shore array of current velocity and pressure sensors were deployed on a barred beach in southwestern Australia to estimate the relative response of edge waves and leaky waves to variable incident wind wave conditions. The strong sea breeze cycle at the study site (wind speeds frequently > 10 m s−1) produced diurnal variations in the peak frequency of the incident waves, with...
Kelps often live in a harsh hydrodynamic environment where wave‐driven dislodgement of individuals can alter the biodiversity and functioning of reef systems, and increase production in coastal ecosystems adjacent to reefs. The current paradigm is that winter storms tear kelps from reefs once hydrodynamic forces exceed attachment or tissue strength—a threshold response that implies a pulsed relationship between wave forces and...
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